Twelve sweets from Odisha that every dessert-lover must try

I handed out a box of crispy Chhena Mudki to my colleagues in office. Back in Bangalore from a well-fed vacation in Odisha ( a state in the eastern India and also my home state), I wanted to treat my colleagues with sweets from there. “This is yummy, tastes like some Bengali sweet.” “Oh! Do Odiya people also make such sweets?” Although a bit disappointing, this wasn’t happening for the first time. Sweets of Odisha have remained a well-kept secret, although every Odiya is born with a sweet tooth.

Lack of marketing and promotion is a key reason for Odisha’s cuisine not getting its fair share of recognition in the gastronomic map of India. There has been a hue and cry over Rasagolla and whether it originated in Bengal or Odisha. But, Rasagolla is just one of the many sweets that Odisha produces. Each district in Odisha has a unique sweet of its own.

Most sweets originated in Odisha as offerings to deities, primarily Lord Jagannath of Puri. The porous borders between Odisha and Bengal in days of yore ensured that the two states share similarities in the ingredients and preparation techniques. Some of these sweets flowed into Bengal through cooks, who moved to Bengal for job opportunities. However, there are a variety of sweets that are still unique to Odisha.

Chhena (coagulated milk) with various degrees of firmness forms the base of most Odiya sweets, and most of the sweets’ names start with Chhena.

Here is a list of twelve of my favorite Odiya sweets and I believe they will be an instant hit with any dessert-lover.

1.Chhena Poda:

Poda in Odiya means burnt. Chhena Poda translates to “burnt cheese cake” in English. Having originated in Nayagarh, the sweet is a state-favorite. Preparation involves kneading the Chhena well along with dry fruits and sugar and putting it inside Sal or banana leaves. It is then baked for several hours to get a rich, brown crust. Chhena Poda is a subtle sweet with the richness of cottage cheese and a crispy crust which melts in mouth.

2.Rasagolla:

This syrupy ball of Chhena has been the subject of a battle for GI tag. Although Odisha lost the battle for Rasagolla‘s origin to Bengal, the Rasagollas in Odisha are a completely different fare. Odisha’s Rasagollas come in a variety of sizes, colors and sweetness content. Historians from Odisha argue that Rasagolla originated around Jagannath temple as an offering for the deities. Pahala (near Bhubaneswar) and Salepur (near Cuttack) produce two different varieties of Rasagolla and are equally loved by people of the state.

3.Chhenna Gajja:

My favorite sweet of the lot, Chhena Gajja is a drier version of Rasagolla. It is soft and less chewy than Rasagolla. Pahala (near Bhubaneswar) is the best place to have the authentic Chhena Gajja.

4.Chhena Mudki:

Very different from the softer version of Chhena sweets, Chhena Mudki is firm and chewy. It is not too sweet and one can end up eating a lot of it as it is yummy. Pirahat, a town in Bhadrak district, produces the best Chhena Mudkis in the state.

5.Chhena Payas:

In this sweet preparation, Payas or kheer (porridge) is made of Chhena instead of rice and sometimes contains Chhena balls dipped in it. It is a popular dessert at most wedding feasts.

Steamed Cake:

A bit different from Bengal’s Chhena Sandesh, the Steamed Cake is Chhena in its purest form. Mostly popular in Bhadrak, the sweet is fluffy and contains very less sugar. The steamed preparation keeps the original flavor of the Chhena intact. I have not seen it in shops outside Bhadrak, although there are variations of the sweet found all over the state.

Chhena Jilpi (Jalebi):

Jilpi in Odiya means Jalebi. The jalebis are made out of Chhena is this case. They are a pure delight for the taste buds as they melt in mouth with a rich, sugary after-taste. Chhena Jilpi is mostly available in Mayurbhanj district.

Khaja/ Pheni:

Khaja aka Pheni is one of the Chappan Bhog (56 varieties of offerings) that are offered to Lord Jagannath daily. It is made from refined flour and sugar. The dough is cut after rolling it like a rope, which gives it a layered shape. It is crunchy and dry and is eaten mostly as a snack than a dessert.

Aarisa Pitha:

Made up of rice powder and jaggery, this crunchy sweet masquerades as a snack. It is mostly prepared around festivals. Since it is dry, Aarisa Pitha lasts long without going bad.

Sev Ladoo:

Rairangpur in Mayurbhanj district prepares delectable Sev ladoos. It’s a nice twist to the ubiquitous boondi laddoos.

Nadiya Kora Ladoo:

Nadiya Kora means grated coconut. Grated coconut is cooked on the stove along with sugar and dry fruits. Once, it cools down, it is balled into laddoos. It is offered to Goddess Tarini in Keonjhar district and is sold in shops there. But, it’s mostly prepared at homes.

Boondiya:

Boondi takes a different form in Odisha when it is not used for making laddoos. It gets bigger, softer and juicier. It is used to complement snacks or is had with chapatis and parathas. Dahi (curd) with boondiya is a popular combination to enjoy this colorful sweet.

A visit to Odisha should definitely include trying out the sweets galore. In Bangalore, 56 Bhoga sweets shop in Agara (near Jagannath temple) stocks most of the above sweets and more.

P.S. The list is not exhaustive. There is the unique Rasabali of Kendrapara and Chhena Jhili of Nimapara and many more. I intend to keep updating the list as I try these sweets out.

 

10 culture shocks that every Indian traveler faces in Europe

“What surprised you the most when you visited Europe for the first time?” asked Alfonso, my new friend in Vienna.

Caught unawares, I did not do justice to his question. “I found Europe to be really clean and safe,” I started and went on to give some examples.

Back in my room, the question got me thinking of the many culture shocks I have faced in Europe. Each time, Europe surprises me with something. I decided to list the top 10 for the benefit of first time travelers to Europe.

1. ‘Watery’ difference

In India, serving water to guest is considered a holy thing. Hence, you are served with free glasses of water in all restaurants. In Europe, I was shocked to find they don’t serve free water in cafes and restaurants. And the second big shock was when I looked at the menu and found beer to be cheaper than water.

I skip water, and instead have a Spritz 🙂

2. Pedestrian privilege

Life of pedestrians is safe and sorted in European cities, quite unlike India. They have planned pedestrian walkways everywhere, motorists stop patiently when pedestrians cross roads and no bike goes up on pedestrian paths and honks at them. Many of the old town centers are only accessible on foot. After my first trip, when I returned to India, the reverse culture-shock of this was a bit too scary for me.

Planned footpaths and crossings for pedestrians

3. Its too clean to be true

Europe (mostly the western Europe) looks unusually clean to most Indians. Everyone takes responsibility of public space cleanness. When I traveled for the first time as an exchange student, I was amazed by the immaculate railway stations, spotless trains and clean toilets, litter-free roads and well-kept public spaces. Unlike India, people pay and use washrooms than pee in public spaces. All the lakes and rivers are clean and pure.

4. Unerring punctuality of transport system

My first trip to Amsterdam from Lille had a train change at Antwerp railway station with the connecting train in 5 mins. I am used to at least 30 mins delay for Indian trains. I was skeptical if I could catch my connecting train. But, I did. Everything runs on time usually, from trains to buses to trams (of course, there are exceptions sometimes). I have caught connecting trains in 2 mins and have been amazed how the city buses are also right on schedule.

Zurich railway station

5. Vegetarian eggs and fish

I have faced it too many times and in so many cities of Europe that when I ask for a vegetarian dish, I inevitably end up with some egg or fish or even chicken. If I have to make sure I get my vegetarian meal right, I list down all things that can’t go in there. This one time, when I think I had listed out everything that is non-vegetarian, I got a soup with scallops.

This time I actually ordered for the fish!

6. Legal red light districts

On my first visit to Amsterdam, as I walked in the red light district looking at the skimpily clad women on display in their windows, I was shocked and amazed at the same time – shocked because it was so out in the open, and amazed as to how it empowered the sex workers and how the locals and the sex workers co-existed together. 8 countries in Europe (The Netherlands, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Greece, Turkey, Hungary, and Latvia) have legalized prostitution.

Amsterdam at night

7. Public display of affection

Public display of affection is still not popular in India and sex is still talked about in hushed tones. So, when one arrives in Europe, it either liberates you or embarrasses you, but its a shock nonetheless. I was impressed by how couples could become oblivious to the world around them, stop in the middle of the road and embark on a passionate kiss and how couples did not have to be careful with their display of affection around their kids.

As close as it gets in a pic 🙂

8. Toilet paper malady

However much I love Europe, there is something that shocks me till today – How it can make peace with toilet paper. Indians need their splash of water and I have many friends who invent some kind of make-do arrangement during their stays in Europe to cope with ‘toilet paper’ malady.

Toilet paper or Water?

9. Friendly strangers

Everyone in Europe, ranging from receptionists to cashiers to customers to bus conductors greet each other, before proceeding with the business. Even strangers smile and greet if your eyes meet. Well, greetings don’t give a culture shock but they surely give a reverse culture shock when you are back in India. On returning to India, I would greet shopkeepers and cab drivers with a ‘hello’ and get surprised stares in return.

Nearly every person I met walking down this road greeted me with a “Buongiorno!”

10. Sun, water and nudity

I have seen Europeans across all countries share a common love for sun and water and swimwear. Come summer, they can be found lounging in their shorts and bikinis in beaches, swimming pools and strange places like parks and college grounds. In winters, with most of the thermal swimming pools operating, people are again back in their shorts and bikinis. In Iceland, I went to a thermal pool and had to shower naked with others before entering the swimming pool. It did shock me a bit, but well, that’s the way it is.

In the middle of nowhereThe list is not exhaustive and I am sure every traveler has some of his/ her unique cultural shocks and experiences. If you have anything to share, please go ahead and post it in the comments 🙂